We started on the trail at 7:45, not an ideal time to start a hike when you want to get to the campsite before dark. 3.7 miles in aprox 1.5 hours normally would have been no problem, but this was the first time I had ever carried a frame backpack. It only weighed about 25 pounds, but I thought it was a ton.

The weather when we left Knoxville was oppressively hot, but by the time we got to Greenbrier, it was quite pleasant. The trail starts at the end of the Greenbrier Road, 2.8 mile past the Ranger Station. Drive past the picnic areas, and continue straight 0.8 past the turn off to Ramsey's Cascades.

The first mile of trail is easy. It is up hill, but not very steep. The trail is an old road, still in very good condition. There is one creek crossing. You can cross over by jumping on stones, a brave feat for me with my heavy pack.

About 3/4 of a mile along the trail is a small graveyard, one of the many dotting the old settlement areas of the park. We love to roam through the aisles looking at the interesting headstones and wondering what these people were like. A little further on is a restored barn, spring house and cabin.

At the one mile point, the trail branches. Take the right fork, and it will lead you to Trillium Gap, Brushy Mountain, and for the sturdy of limb, Mt. Le Conte. The left fork leads to a quiet campsite, our destination that evening.

The trail now picks up its angle of ascent, but never becomes exceedingly steep. Another 1/2 mile along is a pretty bridge spanning the creek. It is one of those log bridges with a wooden rail on only one side, definitely not for those afraid of falling. I had a tense moment hoping I wouldn't lose my balance with my pack.

The next thing of interest is a high waterfall, barely visible from the trail. A steep, slippery side trail climbs up to it. You can't get too close to it without some dangerous climbing, and there are not any good views to snap a picture, but it is lovely to listen to.

The trail became a little steeper, but maintains this angle for the rest of the hike. As was by first time with a frame backpack it seemed strenuous to me, but should be moderately easy for an experienced backpacker. I don't remember too much about the terrain because it was getting steadily darker. There are a lot of trees over the trail, so even though it was a clear night, it seemed very gloomy.

As it got darker, it was harder to see the trail, but a vague glowing outline remained. We made pretty good time. Fire flies began to appear, a few at first, but soon hundreds of fire flies were swarming ahead of us. It was a beautiful sight, tiny jewels glittering in the night. They were so disorienting, it was hard to keep an eye on the trail. The little lights seemed to be beckoning to us like the Loreli, drawing sailors to founder on the rocks. All of a sudden I had to stop and get my bearings. I was going to far to the left, and would soon lose the trail. Up to this point, I had no difficulty following the faint trail, but now I could no longer follow it. Out came the flashlights! On a moonlit night, so Albert says, you can easily follow a trail in the dark. But we had no moonlight, and the trees would have blocked it out anyway.

It was getting late and we were both tired and hungry. It seemed like the path would stretch on forever. The tantalizing smells of a campfire and cooking food wafted down from the campsite. At every turn of the trail, I expected to come upon it. But the wind was blowing the smoke from farther away than we imagined.


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