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We hired a driver for the day (thanks Luke!) to take us across the torturous and winding terrain that is Cornwall. But Luke had something in mind for us first. That something is known as Roche Rock.
Roche Rock is a strange outcropping of schorl which reares fantastically above Goss Moor. Perched on top are the ruins of St. Michael's Chapel, licensed in 1409. It has a lower room for an anchorite, and some said it was founded by St. Roche. "Roche," however, means "rock" in French (so, in other words, the name is "Rock Rock").
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Legend says that the chapel and anchorite's cell were built as the refuge for the last of the Tregarricks, a leper. He lived there until his death, to avoid infecting others. He was brought food, drink, and water to wash with every day by his daughter Gundred. She fetched the water from the nearby St. Gunett's Well.
Stupid me, I could not resist the challenge to climb the rock and look out the window. So I did just that, despite the windswept rocks and gusts so powerful they threatened to toss me like a rag doll. I was so preoccupied with clinging to the rock face that it never occured to me to worry about the Rock's inhabitants.
Amber and Luke both confided later that they had a bad feeling about the place, and were concerned with my safety (Amber's Note: That was most definately an evil place - I'd never felt such a horrible presence before). Ya see, Roche Rock's supposed to be haunted by Jan Tregeagle. It was at Roche Rock that the damned Tregeagle's soul fled from Dozmary Pool. Apparently Jan didn't find me very interesting, because I didn't notice him either.
We then journeyed to the little town of Boscastle. It was here we sought out the Museum of Witchcraft, which was strangely ignored by all the brochures that screamed for our attention. When I spoke to one of the locals in Truro about it (at a pub, of course) he mentioned that, "They don't like the witchcraft museum." I'm not sure who he meant by they, but he's right -- the Museum of Witchcraft has a simple sign of a witch (with no words on it) to identify its location. Not that Boscastle's very large!
In the end, it didn't matter. The Museum was closed for the season. Awwww!
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The primary reason we came to Cornwall was finally at hand: Tintagel! In 1139 Geoffrey de Monmouth published his 'History of Britain' and claimed that Tintagel was the birthplace of King Arthur. Although there may have been the remains of the community established by St Juliot in the 6th century, when Reginald, Earl of Cornwall built his stronghold here in 1145 there was no record of Arthur's castle. That doesn't deter the locals from cashing in on the craze -- we ate at a restaurant named King Arthur's Arms, even partaking of an "Excaliburger" in the "Guinevere Room." Trust us, you're not missing anything. While we're on the subject of burgers, "medium well" does not exist in Britain as far as I could tell -- asking for a burger "medium well" was asking for a hockey puck.
Reginald, the illegitimate son of Henry I, was responsible for the Great Hall and Chapel. In the middle of the 13th century further buildings were added by Earl Richard, the younger brother of Henry III. The main part of the castle dates from his tenure.
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In the 14th century, with other Cornish castles, it was passed into the ownership of the Black Prince. He carried out some restoration but after his death the castle fell into decline. It was used as a prison at the end of the 14th century but was never used again as a fortress.
Today it forms part of the Duchy of Cornwall. Coastal erosion has resulted in the castle being part the mainland and part on a peninsula.
The narrow causeway that conected the castle to the mainland in Geoffrey of Monmouth's time has been washed away and access to the castle is now by two steep stairways. And they are very steep indeed. Amber and I trudged up and down hill after hill, after nearly being swept off the cliffs by some fierce winds. We didn't see King Arthur's Cups, or his seat, or anything particularly historic -- or maybe we did, and just weren't able to spot it through the wind and rain.
