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An Owners Review of the Ericson 38

By Captain Ron

Jack Horner a marine surveyor, has reviewed the Ericson 38 which you can read on the web at the Southwinds magazine site http://www.southwindssailing.com/articles/0207/ericson38.htm if you want a professional’s opinion.  The following is my opinion as an owner and thus biased perhaps somewhat in favor of the boat.  Take it for what it’s worth.  I’m a USCG licensed Master (50t) with sail endorsement and a US Sailing Small Boat Instructor.  I’ve been sailing and messing about in boats my entire life.  I was even a Sea Scout as a teenager.  Currently I’m captain on the Cypress Belle a real stern paddle wheel Mississippi River boat taking visitors to Cypress Gardens Adventure Park out for day and dinner cruises on Lake Eloise in Winter Haven, Florida 

 Mr Horner liked the boat’s conservative lines and the designer’s reputation.  The designer of course, was the legendary Bruce King who never designed a slow boat in his life and the Ericson 38 is a prime example of his art.  It’s a strikingly beautiful design and was very popular over the entire production run that extended for more than 20 years.  

Originally the E-38 was built by Ericson Yachts and sold in two models; the standard version drawing 4’11” or an optional version drawing 6’6”.  Pacific Seacraft subsequently bought out Ericson and modified the boats slightly by adding a winged or bulbed keel that drew 5’ 3” …

Based on my own boat, a 1983 ‘381’ model, the deeper draft models probably offer somewhat greater stability.  I know of at least one friend who has added an 800lb  ‘Mars Metals’ bulb to his 4’11” keel and claims to have improved his boat’s stiffness.  However, I find that the standard 4’11” keel is just fine.  I don’t consider the boat to be tender at all and she seems to go to weather very well in any breeze provided that you reduce sail according to conditions.  Our typical cruising configuration is to carry a 130% genoa on the roller furler and a full batten main.  There are times when I would wish for a smaller jib because the shape of the partially rolled 130 is out of whack but we find those instances few and far between as we don’t often sail to weather when cruising.   There was even a race around Stocking Island at the 2006 Georgetown regatta where a 155% genoa would have let us sail up to her rating although even with the light air that day, we finished a respectable 4th in class.

Which brings me to one of the primary reasons we bought our 38 … sailing performance.  This boat sails fast.  Even loaded with cruising gear, we’re typically faster than similar sized boats not so encumbered.  She goes upwind higher and faster than comparable designs and ours would go higher yet if I had a hydraulic backstay adjuster.  Upwind, our jib luff sags off too much.

We also liked her construction.  Ericson built her in solid glass with some core in places where extra stiffness was required.  A grid of heavy fiberglass members built into the hull distributes loads throughout although it reduces bilge volumes somewhat.   We also liked the fact that the toe rail was molded into the deck rather than capped with teak as it is in some designs.  Further the deck is bonded to the hull with layers of glass making the hull/deck an integrated whole that will never leak.  We also liked the minimal amount of teak used on the exterior of the boat.  We’ve had boats with copious amounts of exterior teak and we’ve had our fill of varnishing.  On our boat we even replaced the teak handrails with stainless steel to even further reduce the maintenance workload.

Gel coat blistering has been an issue with most boats built in the 80s and the E38 is no exception.  And as Mr Horner points out, deck fittings, ports and chain plates can be the source of leaks.  On our own boat, we found that the main leak culprit is the mast with its profusion of ports for internal halyards, wires, etc.  We replaced the mast partner shim system with Spartite but this only partially solved the mast leak issue.  The E38 also has a few plastic thru-hull fittings below the waterline and we have replaced one so far for cracks found during a bottom job.

Our boat has all of the halyards, reefing lines, traveler controls and boom-vang led back to the cockpit and stopped off in front of winches in the cabin top behind the mid-boom traveler.  I’m not convinced that I like this arrangement.   I think I would prefer to have the reefing winches and halyards at the mast.  As it is currently set-up, in order to reef, the halyard must be eased and then the crew must go forward to secure the reef cringle to the reefing hook, then return to the cockpit to tension the halyard and haul in the reefing tackle.  Then (with our bimini/dodger in place), exit the cockpit again to secure the reefing stops.  It would be better to just leave the cockpit, accomplish all of the reefing functions at the mast and return via the reefing tie-off function.  Of course, leading all these lines to the cockpit increases clutter in the cockpit and requires deck hardware to fairlead them.   I have had to replace deck turning blocks because last year in hoisting the main, the main halyard turning block exploded.  Oh Well … it was a 20+ year old block … fortunately no one was standing in front of it.

 
The cockpit is typical sailboat.  The bench design comes from the tiller era where one sat sideways in order to steer.  I don’t understand why this feature has not been rethought since most boats over 30 feet or so invariably have steering wheels.  I have seen a couple of designs where they did consider this possibility.  The Amel Sharki has it’s smallish wheel up against the cockpit bulkhead with the helm seat behind, however it’s a single wheel … why not one wheel on each side?  Maybe even gimbal the seat?  The other design was the Beneteau 505 with twin wheels aft with primary winches inboard of the wheels such that the helmsman could steer and trim in the shorthanded situation.  I like that layout a lot.  Anyway, the Ericson is traditional in this regard.  There is also an emergency tiller arrangement accessed via a port behind the wheel.  The aluminum pipe components of this emergency tiller work ok but because the wheel and pedestal are in the way, the tiller is oriented sideways which takes some getting used to.  I guess I’d rate it adequate.

We also found the helmsman’s seating position to be too low and so we added a folding seat offset slightly to port of the boarding ladder at coaming height.  This gives much better visibility especially for motoring the ditch.   The steering gear is Merriman Yacht Specialties on our boat.  That means that parts are impossible to find except as used or salvage parts.  It works fine however and the E38 is a delight to steer at any angle of heel; very light and sensitive on the helm.  She takes a fine touch to steer her fast. 

We have added a Raymarine Type 2 linear drive below decks autopilot.  This is more autopilot than the boat really needs but we found that the steering ram pivot on the steering quadrant, when correctly located, traverses 13.5 inches stop-to-stop.  The type 1 drive unit from Raymarine only travels 12 inches.  Thus we chose the Type 2 drive that has 16” of travel.  Of course, the heavier drive unit also requires the heavier duty S3 computer and heavier duty wiring adding to the cost. 

Our boat has the open quarter berth aft of the chart table on the port side and traditional long bench interior, which we prefer over the more modern semi-circular seating and lounge chair layout.  The traditional interior means that the saloon benches are long enough and (with the back cushions removed) wide enough to sleep on comfortably.  We also like the separate shower stall in the forward head.  We have a custom mattress in the V-berth where we sleep most of the time.  The V-berth is large and more than adequate for me (6ft 200lbs), my wife (smaller) and our little dog Molly (6lbs).  Not my idea… by the way.

Kismet has the standard Universal 32hp diesel engine under the cockpit with a straight drive via the standard shaft log to a bronze strut.  We have a dripless shaft seal.  We also added a 3 bladed feathering prop although the boat powers just fine with the original two blade.  Our three blade feathering prop is made by J-Prop and provides much improved reverse performance.  We back up straight where the two blade fixed prop exhibits a marked tendency to walk. The J-Prop also has the advantage of easily adjusting pitch, a task that I have accomplished underwater without dive gear.

I think the boat is underpowered with the M-40 Universal (Kubota) engine.  50hp is more like it for a boat this size.  While we move ok and fuel consumption is under 1 gallon per hour, we don’t move at hull speed except in calm conditions at full throttle and then the engine blows some smoke and the temperature climbs.  We have replaced all of the cooling system components and still we get white smoke and climbing temps when we load her up.  The prop pitch is set to just come up about 100rpm short of maximum.  We’ve tried less pitch but all we accomplish is less speed.  More pitch just reduces max rpm without adding to boat speed.  Still at about 2000 rpm (2800 is max) we will make 6 to 6.5 knots in flat calm conditions.  I think cruising boats should have an engine big enough to cruise at hull speed… meaning ¾ throttle which would be about 7.5 knots for the E38.

The other drawback to the marinized Kubota is the engine oil capacity.  At 11.5 quarts, you’re talking major amounts of oil.  I have added a supplemental oil filtering system like those used on long distance trucks that so far, has allowed me to extend our oil change interval from 75 hours to 400 hours based on lab testing of our oil samples.  We still change filters every 75-100 hours and top off the oil but we only change oil about once a year.  Also since our cruising ground is the Bahamas, we don’t have to carry around all that new and used oil… there are no disposal facilities in the Bahamas. 

I would also complain about engine access although I’ve seen many boats of this size with much less access.  The cabinetry around the front end of the engine all comes apart if you need major access and there are ports under the galley sink and in the quarter-berth.  Otherwise access is through the starboard lazzarette.  This is somewhat painful since the locker must be unloaded to gain egress.  Also the water heater resides on a platform just behind the engine and it can be in the way at times.

Our galley and refrigeration systems work fine but I would wish for more insulation around the fridge.  Our system is a vintage Adler-Barbour air-cooled unit.  Provided you keep it full and open it sparingly, it is sufficient for the two of us.  We have added a few small cabinets in the galley area to take advantage of some dead space.  There are two propane tank lockers at the aft end of the cockpit.  We find that we get about 6 weeks of cooking out of a single tank.  We don’t have an oven in ours… the PO obviously preferred having a microwave, which sits where the oven should be. 

One other drawback we encountered is the stainless steel water tanks.  Both tanks leaked profusely. The tanks were made by a California company to Ericson’s design. Of course they were 20 year old tanks.  After studying this issue a bit, I’ve come to the conclusion that stainless steel and aluminum are not proper materials for water tanks.  The reason is that chlorine in the water attacks the welding materials and will eat through it no matter how carefully the tanks were originally constructed.  If you want water safe to drink, then you must add chlorine to the water.  Besides most municipal system already have substantial chlorine in the water.  Water tanks should be made of chemically inert plastics or fiberglass.  In the old days, tanks were made of black iron.  Nothing wrong with that material either even though they’re heavy and eventually rust out too.   Monel tanks are virtually unheard of these days due to the cost of the material.  I replaced the tank under the starboard settee with a bladder tank and the V-berth tank, I replaced with a custom plastic tank that’s about 10 gallons larger than the original 60 gallon stainless tank.

I hope I don’t sound like I’m complaining.   The Ericson 38 is a fine boat and meets our cruising needs very well.  We’ve now got her to the point where we shouldn’t need to change much else to cruise her comfortably over the next several years.  Oh sure, we wish for a bigger boat at times but when we think about it, Kismet is just our size.   

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