One of my areas of interest is photography, so naturally I get a kick out of photographing my models and those of my friends. While it may seem odd, at first, for a modeling site to include an article such as this, it’s become increasingly popular for fine scale modelers to enter Internet contests or submit photos of their work to trade magazines. Being artists, I think we all agree that a fine modeling job can be "hidden" by poor photography and feel a good photograph definitely compliments a good model. Though I’m not a professional I hope you can learn from my experiences which keep growing with each new photo shoot.

Good equipment definitely helps produce good photos so here’s a list of what I typically use.

1. 35mm camera with a macro lens.
2. 2X converter for extreme close-ups.
3. 100 speed film.
4. Gray card.
5. Bounce card.
6. Tripod.

If at all possible try to use a 35mm camera as compared to an instamatic or "point and shoot" camera as I like to refer to them. The reason is simple – control. When trying to get really good photos controlling the amount of light and your depth of field really make a difference. Depth of field is an important element when shooting models and determines what’s in focus or blurred. For example, if you are shooting a model that has some length to it, like a brachiosaurus you may decide to keep the entire animal in sharp focus. For this type of shot you’ll want to shoot at an aperture setting of f/16 or f/22. If you aim is to emphasize great size and therefore you want to keep the front half of the beast in sharp focus while the back half fades out of focus then shooting at a setting of say, f/8 should accomplish this nicely. Always shoot at several focal lengths to give yourself a few pictures to choose from.  Remember, the larger the number means more of the subject will be in sharp focus.

The lens that I have found most helpful is my 80-200mm macro-zoom lens. When photographing wildlife I can use the zoom settings and when shooting models I use the macro settings, it’s flexible and cost effective. This lens’ physical shape is like a long tube so more light will be needed to get a good image. For this reason, I always prefer natural daylight to shoot models. The film I use is balanced for daylight, rather than artificial light so no filters are necessary. Of course, this means that photographing models is limited to nice sunny days, which for Toledo, are hard to come by in the winter months! Once I gain more experience shooting indoors, I’ll post that information as well. The film speed I use is 100ASA. This speed gives sharp details especially if you decide to enlarge a really nice photo for framing. For really close-ups I use a 2x tele-converter mounted to my lens. This effectively makes my lens twice as powerful so I can get in twice as close. This is great when you really want to see those fine details and that great paint job. I’m really pleased with the bust photo of Mark’s mummy which was shot with the tele-converter.

Another helpful item is a gray-scale card. These can be purchased at a photography supply store and aid in getting the correct light meter reading. Since your camera’s metering system can be easily "fooled" by shooting conditions, the use of a gray card and bracketing can help get just the right exposure for the shot. These cards are especially helpful when shooting contrasting colors, like a light subject against a dark background. You can read the instructions that come with the card but remember to zoom in really tight on the subject to get the correct light reading then zoom out, compose your shot then take it. Without the aid of the gray card, your camera's meter reading may be "influenced" by the dark background and your subject will likely be over-exposed.  As an added measure, bracket your exposure by shooting additional photos, one at 1-2 stops over and 1-2 stops under your estimated exposure. This ensures getting just the right exposure.

Bounce cards simply "bounce" light toward dark areas, like under chins and arms and help illuminate these areas and catch detail.  This "card" can be a sheet of white cardboard or similar light colored surface.  The number of cards you'll want to use will be influenced by the type of photo you want and the angle of the light source.  Of course it helps to have a friend hold these into position.   When shooting in bright sunlight, harsh shadows can be softened using a thin cloth sheet or visqueen stretched across a large photo frame.  Position this between the light source and your model.  Remember to always use your gray card after the bounce cards and filter are in place. 

Tripods are invaluable when shooting close-ups and help eliminate blurred images due to the camera movement. Invest in one and you’ll not be sorry. Also, a shutter-release cable helps eliminate camera movement when depressing the shutter button. These are cheap and can make a big difference in the final outcome.

Remember that good photos can only enhance a good model but poor photos can hide any traces of fine detail you’ve worked so hard to apply. Give it a "shot" and send us your results, we’d love to include your photos in our gallery.

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